Properly
stretched strings:
Basically this means that when putting on a new set
of strings, you need to pull on the strings to
stretch them. You cannot simply tune the new set up
to pitch and expect it to hold--you have to pull on
the string and then keep retuning until it no longer
goes flat after you pull. I prefer to use an
electronic tuner for this because more often than not
I find myself doing the stretching in a very noisy
environment, such as a club or during soundcheck when
the drummer is whacking the hell out of his snare
drum.
A
well-cut nut:
This means a nut that is just
perfect for the string gauge that you use. If it's
too tight, when you use the tuner, the string will
get pinched in the nut, and then when you bend or
play, this pinching will give, causing the string to
go flat. (A gap that's too wide can result in string
rattle)
Vintage
trems:
These are notorious for causing
tuning problems. The spring tension must match the
string gauge in order to return to pitch and the
string must be free to move back and forth without
resistance. If you use this type of trem a lot, be
prepared for a lot of re-tuning! Vintage trems
definately benefit from professional attention. A
loose trem arm can be cured by wrapping P.T.F.E. tape
round the screw thread.
Floyd
Rose type trem:
Somebody's probably tried to
explain that you should cut off the ball at the end
of the string and lock the end in the tremolo system.
Instead of cutting off the ball, simply leave it on
and turn the string the other way around. Stick the
string through the whole and attach the other end to
your Floyd rose system. Hold the string straight and
cut it off so the string is almost straight. Now lock
it on your tremolo. This technique should make it
easier to setup the strings on your Floyd Rose or
similar tremolo system. Because the string is already
fixed at both ends, the string won't slip when you to
tune it up. It's much easier for people who don't
have much experience because once you start using the
technique you won't make the mistake of loops which
might make your guitar go out of tune if you don't
have a nut-lock.
When a
string breaks it usually breaks very close to the
tremolo system. When you're playing live you probably
don't want to put on a new string because this takes
up quite some time and tuning with a new string can
be a problem. Leaving this extra piece of string
makes it very easy to unlock the locking mechanism
and get the broken string attached to the tremolo
system again. In many situations this is a very nice
trick to get you up and running again in under a
minute. Usually the guitar stays in tune this way,
unlike putting on a new string.
tune
Stable
tuners:
Most tuners, even really cheap
ones, don't usually slip. However, the worm-drive on
the cheaper ones can wear quite quickly so if this is
a problem then a new (better) set is really the only
option.
Proper
tuning technique:
When you tune, always tune UP to
the note and not DOWN to it. For example:
Suppose
you are trying to tune the fifth string to A.
Currently the string is flat. In order to tune
properly you need to turn the tuning gear until you
hit A. If you go SHARP, the WRONG thing to do is to
turn the gear down until you hit A. The reason this
is incorrect is because there is still a minute
amount of slack in the tuner, no matter how good the
tuner is, there is ALWAYS some slack.
For
those of you who would doubt this, try overshooting
your target note and then tuning DOWN toward the
note. Once you hit the note, take your finger and
give the string a big yank. Now check your tuning
again--I GUARANTEE it's going to be flat, if only a
few cents or so.
If you
go too far sharp, the PROPER way to tune is to turn
the gear so that the resulting note is DELIBERATELY
flat. In other words, going back to our example, if
you overshoot your A note, then turn the tuner so you
are FLATTER than A. Now give the string a tug as you
would do when you are stretching. The slack in the
tuner will give. Now tune towards the A, being
careful not to overshoot. If you overshoot, repeat
the process. The key is to tune in the SHARP
direction only!
If you
fail to observe any of these points above, you're
going to be in a mess, because stable tuning requires
all of the above elements to be in place. Likely
you're going to find that your tuning problem is the
result of a combination of the above factors. After
following all of the above guidelines, I usually find
that even the worst and cheapest guitars stay in tune
just fine.