"My
100-watt amp is twice as loud as your 50-watt
amp". This is one of those really
sad myths that just won't go away in spite of volumes
of mathematically proven, unambiguous, clear,
undisputed, scientific knowledge to the contrary
knowledge that every tech worthy of a
soldering iron learned very early in their training.
Music store sales staff on commission love this myth
because it's sold thousands of 100-watt stacks (not
to mention the follow-on sales of expensive
replacement tube sets). Here are the facts:
All other things being equal, a 100-watt amp will be
just perceptibly louder than a 50-watt amp. It takes
about a ten-fold increase in power to double
perceived volume. You'd need a 500-watt amp to be
"twice as loud" as your mate's 50-watt amp.
Even more thought-provoking is the fact that a
50-watt amp will only be perceived as a little bit
louder than a 15-watt amp driving the same cabinet!
All other things are almost never equal. There are so
many variables controlling sound pressure level (SPL)
and perceived volume that it's quite common for a
small amp to sound louder than a much more powerful
amp. Cab design, speaker size and efficiency, signal
compression, and several other factors have far
greater impact on perceived volume than power level.
"I
need a 100-watt amp because my band has started
gigging in clubs". This is a myth
that probably originates with hormonally imbalanced
teens who have more experience watching movies about
teen bands than they have playing real gigs.
Unfortunately, it's a self-perpetuating myth because
the rhythm player is going to get a big amp because
he's being drowned out by the lead player, then the
bass has to get a 400 watt amp to be heard at all,
then they need a 1200 watt PA system so that the
vocals have some chance of being heard over the
cacophony from the guitars and bass, and finally they
end up having to mic the drummer even in a small club
because the drummer is breaking sticks and skins and
still can't be heard over the racket. Within a few
years their hearing has been permanently damaged and
they all decide that they need bigger amps!
Three-quarters
deaf, they finally make the big time and the guitar
magazines write about the gang of three 100-watt
stacks that the guitar hero uses on stage and all the
wannabees have just gotta have the same rig. As you
can imagine, this is another myth that sales staff on
commission are in no hurry to debunk! Well, here are
the facts.
There's absolutely no venue that requires a larger
amp and cabinet than one suitable for use as a stage
monitor provided that the members of the band
don't get into a juvenile competition to outdo each
other. Need more feedback? Fine, move closer to the
amp, for crying out loud! Typically, a really good
30-watt rig with a suitable cab is ample!
Depending
on the composition of your band and the variety of
venues you play, an even smaller rig miked to the PA
and then pumped to stage monitors may be even better.
Note that while a good 30-watt rig has ample volume
you may end up having to buy a more powerful rig to
get other desired features.
At a small venue, a 15 to 30 watt amp can be placed
behind the band in a traditional position and used
without a mic. In this position the rig serves as a
monitor for the guitarist and as the primary
amplification for the guitar.
At a medium venue, the small rig can be placed in
front of and facing the guitarist as a monitor, and
be miked and run through the band's PA. The band's PA
speakers are placed along the front of the stage and
facing out. This arrangement allows the sound to be
balanced at the mixer and allows the band to flood a
medium to large venue without damaging their hearing.
At a large to giant venue, that same small rig can be
arranged much as described above but now the band's
mixer feeds the house PA. This is the only way to
reach the back of the room without dangerous SPLs
near the stage at a large venue and would be required
no matter how powerful a rig the guitarist has.
Smaller equipment takes up less space on cramped
stages. The money you save by purchasing a smaller
amp can fund a nice power conditioner to protect your
equipment and clean up powerline noise the
conditioner will cost less too since now you don't
need one that will handle a billion watts.
If the band members will agree not to compete, all of
them can recognize significant savings by not having
to purchase unnecessary equipment. Your band is far
more likely to be called back for a repeat engagement
if you provide a well-balanced, easily managed
performance than if you're just obnoxiously and
uncontrollably loud.
Many guitarists already have the monster amp
it isn't necessary to get rid of it. You can use an
attenuator and perhaps a smaller cab.
"I
need a small combo because I live in a flat". This is sort
of the opposite of myth two, above, and is closely
related to myth one, above. While a small combo will
certainly take up less room, it may or may not be
easier to get good cranked tone out of it at bedroom
levels. First, read myth one again. If it's true that
we have to increase power ten times to double
perceived volume, then it's also true that we have to
reduce power ten times to cut the perceived volume in
half. Thus, even a tiny 5-watt single ended tube amp
is going to sound about half as loud as a fifty-watt
stack (actually, it will be a bit quieter than that
because it's probably driving an eight or ten inch
speaker instead of a 4X12 cab). Even that five-watt
amp will be way too loud to run cranked in a bedroom
unless your neighbours are very tolerant. Here are
some facts you should consider:
Even a 5-watt tube amp with an eight inch speaker is
very loud by the time you crank it into distortion.
You can use an attenuator with either a large amp or
a small combo. Keep in mind, however, that
attenuating below about 1 watt per speaker starts to
adversely affect tone it seems that a certain
amount of speaker drive is required to round out
distortion. Even one watt into an 8" or 10"
guitar speaker is likely to get you evicted.
Many small combos do not offer a master volume, thus
making it impossible to even get preamp saturation at
acceptable volume levels. To get true "cranked
tube tone" in a flat at lease-safe levels you're
almost certainly going to have to use a combination
of attenuation and a sound-proof speaker isolation
box with a microphone running to a mixer or stereo.
This is true whether you're running a 5-watt,
single-ended, class A combo with an eight-inch
speaker or a 100-watt stack with a 4X12 cab.
It's not a good idea to run an amp inside a
sound-proof box, so even with a small combo you'll
need an extension speaker. It's not much fun to try
to enclose a 4X12 cab, so you'll also need an
extension speaker with that kind of rig.
The lesson here, once again, is to select amps based
on features, not on power level. A tiny five-watt
class-A amp with an eight-inch speaker and no
features may not be very satisfying after a while,
will be wholly inadequate for gigging, and still
isn't quiet enough to run cranked in your bedroom!
Add a few features such as footswitchable channels,
master volume, and an effects loop and that 5-watt
amp starts to become pretty attractive!
"My
tube amp has a master volume control that lets me get
power-amp distortion at low volume levels". Yet another
myth that sales staff love (seems like there are
quite a few of these). The facts are:
With the possible exception of some very rare and
expensive "boutique" amps, a so-called
master volume does not reduce power output after the
power-amplification stage as the name would seem to
imply. The master volume controls found on popular
amps cut the power between the final preamp stage and
the power amp. In all popular tube amps, when you
turn down the master volume, then turn up the gain
controls to achieve overdrive, you're overdriving the
preamp stages, not the power stage.
The "master volume" control permits running
the preamp at full saturation or beyond at reasonable
volume levels and allows you to balance preamp and
power amp saturation for a wide variety of sounds.
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