Rack
systems are widely regarded as the prime setup for
the professional studio or touring guitarist. In the
studio world, having stereo effects and the choice of
direct or miked recording (or both) at your disposal
are expected by some producers. It's also important
to know that possessing the ability to call up
several dozen preset "patches" and finding
the appropriate one without slowing the pace of the
session will get you called back. For the touring
pro, the rack itself serves as a sturdy road case.
Plus having all your components plugged in, wired
together, and ready to go cuts down on setup time
(and saves wear and tear on cables and jacks). Also
of note, a stereo speaker setup allows you to spread
your sound out on a big stage for maximum
"coverage" without having to crank up the
volume. Lastly, MIDI control over all your devices is
a nice way to keep the "tap dancing" to a
minimum.
The
disadvantage of racks, of course, is price.
Therefore, it's in the best interest of the guitarist
to keep "trial and error" costs to a
minimum. For starters, let's assume you've settled on
a guitar or two that you like. Unless you enjoy
hauling a truckload of axes to every gig (and keeping
'em all strung), one beauty of a rack system is that
you can limit yourself to one or two guitars and
still get a variety of tones. The important thing is
to always take your guitar to the shop when trying
out rack gear. Second, it's important to note that
what you're buying is a SYSTEM. In other words, keep
in mind that "chain is only as strong as its
weakest link" saying and apply it to your
purchases. Skimping on even one component will make
your whole system sound bad.
A
common mistake many players make is to prioritize the
effects processor over everything else. After all,
people typically associate rack systems with
processed sounds. Worse yet, many people fall victim
to the hype over all the super fancy
"preamp/processors" out there. It's crucial
to know that when you jam all that stuff into one
box, there are going to be compromises. At first,
it's a good idea to forget about the effects and
focus on a good core tone. This means primarily
choosing a killer DEDICATED preamp, but also a power
amp and speaker configuration that brings out the
best in the aforementioned preamp. The only way to do
this is to take your guitar to a shop and experiment
with various combinations. This might annoy the shop
employees, but just remind them how much money you're
prepared to blow if you find something you like.
As far
as tones are concerned, the (preferably tube) preamp
should AT LEAST have one sparkly/bouncy clean tone,
one dynamic/sensitive crunch sound and one
liquid/expressive lead tone. If it has a few more,
great. If it only has one or two out of the three,
move on. Assuming the preamp meets your tonal
requirements, MIDI control, XLR "recording
outputs," and a stereo effects loop with
adjustable input and output levels are must-have
features. The stereo power amp should have plenty of
headroom, a healthy amount of power and a thick, full
sound. Some power amps sound thin, therefore ruining
an otherwise kickin' preamp. Using the same preamp,
experiment with how different power amps affect your
sound. Typically, all-tube units sound better, but
various solid-state versions can be less expensive,
more powerful, very reliable and may come close to
achieving a tube-like tone. Let your ears be the
judge on this one.
Regardless
of what speaker configuration you want, opt for a
good "marine-grade" plywood cabinet (avoid
particleboard). Also, two cabinets set in stereo
typically sound better than one cabinet wired for
stereo. In terms of versatility and portability, try
a system of two 1x12" cabinets: one with a
closed back and one with an open back. Lastly, sample
as many different brand speakers as possible through
the system.
Now
that you have a good core tone, it's finally time to
find that effects processor. Many dedicated
"guitar processors" have really cool sounds
typically not found on other units. Among these are
Leslie simulators, intelligent pitch shifting and
"whammy" type effects. Unfortunately, many
of these units also have "preamp" sections.
These preamp sections can potentially cause
compatibility issues with your preamp's effects loop.
Bypass these sections if the option is allowed, or at
least set the unit's preamp EQ as flat as humanly
possible. Since you already have a great tone going,
you want minimum tonal coloration from the external
processing. You just want effects. When choosing a
MIDI foot controller, select the unit that works best
with the effects processor you've selected (the
preamp is only relying on MIDI for patch changes).
Since many processors offer the option of
"expression" pedals, this is certainly a
feature you will enjoy taking advantage of when
choosing a foot controller.
Finally,
choose a rack that is durable and protects your gear.
You also want to find a nice compromise between
keeping the rack small and light enough to be
portable, but leaving a enough extra spaces for
additional processors. Also, you definitely want to
protect your investment with a rackmount power
conditioner. A locking rackmount drawer is nice for
storing cables, strings, etc. A rackmount tuner is a
nice touch if there isn't one built in the processor.
Just make sure to keep the tuner out of the signal
patch when you aren't using it. Tuners can kill your
tone. Now comes the finances. Other guitar setups
allow you to piece stuff together as you acquire the
cash. Not so here. Much like your home stereo, a rack
system is the kind of thing that's useless unless you
buy the whole thing at once... at least the preamp,
amp and speakers. If you don't feel like waiting
until you can save the cash, this is one rare
instance where it's not a bad idea to take out a
loan. At least you can deduct it on your taxes,
right?