Buying
new:
The first thing to decide on is how much power you
really need. For a guitar, 15 watts is ideal for
practice or home recording, but if you want to gig
then you need more, 50 to 75 watts is generally
enough for small/medium gigs and the majority of
guitar amps fall into this bracket. Choose a sensible
speaker configuration, 1x12's are portable but can be
'directional', 2x12's are louder and less peaky,
4x10's or 4x12's more so, but the trade-off is
increased size and weight, unless you have a roadie!
It
always used to be simple, valves were the real deal,
tranny amps were pale imitations. But not any more,
the latest solid state and digital modelling amps can
sound nearly as good. They're also cheaper, lighter
and more reliable than valves, and frequently pack
more tonal range and flexibility. On the other hand,
the classic tones most of us want come from valves.
They cost more and can be temperamental, but for most
professionals it's still valves first. Many
manufacturers make both, as well as hybrid designs
that usually incorporate a valve in the preamp.
Decide
how much you can afford, then jot down the features
you really need. Are three channels a luxury or a
necessity, do you really need a fridge-sized rack
system and a pair of 4x12's for that duo gig at the
local wine bar? When you've narrowed your choice down
to about three candidates, find the nearest stockists
(call the UK distributors if you need to) and go
hunting. Call first to check the amps you want to
audition are in stock! If you can, go during the
week, Saturdays are always busier, and noisier.
If you
can't bring your own guitar, use a close match. Work
on the clean channel first, and set up a balanced
sound. Then look at where the tone controls are, if
they're roughly in the middle of their travel this is
a good thing. Some amps share one set of tone knobs
for clean and distortion channels. When you have your
ideal clean sound, switch channels and see how far
you have to tweak them for that killer lead tone.
Play at realistic volume levels, but be sensible, a
Marshall on ten won't impress store staff! If you're
after practice amps then listen to them at practice
volume, most bigger amps are tuned for gig levels and
can sound 'flat' in bedroom mode. Use a pedal to
check FX loops, but concentrate on the tone of the
amp. Don't fall into the trap of propping up an
indifferent amp with a stomp box, sooner or later
you'll regret it.
Listen
for noise by turning everything up with the guitars
volume at zero. Some hiss on lead channels is normal,
and most amps hum a little. Rotate the knobs and
listen for pops and crackles. Flip switches to see if
they pop too. On valve amps, rap your knuckles on the
cabinet, ringing or high pitched squealing indicates
a microphonic valve which most shops will replace if
you ask nicely. When you're done, sit back and temper
your opinion with the reality that all high gain amps
have some noise, it's up to you to draw a line of
acceptability. If it's too much move on, it'll be
worse still in the quiet of your own home,
particularly if you plan on using your amp for
recording.
Buying
second-hand:
If you're be careful, most guitarists sell amps
because they fancy a change, but there are plenty of
problem amps offloaded too. Always check the chassis
screws on a used amp 'cos if they're chewed up it's a
sure sign of tampering. Be especially wary of buying
anything more than twenty years old, and don't be
suckered in by high-priced 'vintage' gear, unlike
guitars, age doesn't improve an amp. Most old amps
need a lot of work to make them reliable and safe to
use. If the amp has a detachable mains lead, then fit
a new one. If the lead disappears into the chassis
then open up the plug and check the wires are secure,
and the fuse value is correct. Also budget to renew
old valves, a set of quality replacements can easily
top a hundred pounds.
Check
the speaker. Give the cone a gentle poke to make sure
it's firm and not deteriorating. Turn the amp on and
check to make sure there's no orange plate glow on
the power tubes. Don't confuse this with the normal
orange glow of the tube's heater filament. Orange
glow indicates that the tubes are dangerously
underbiased--this isn't necessarily a failure, but
would have to be addressed right away, as it might
burn a tube or transformer quickly. Pull all the
tubes and look at the tube sockets to see if any of
them look cracked or burned. You probably won't be
able to do this, but it won't hurt to ask the seller
if he'll pull the chassis and let you have a look
around inside. The most obvious thing to check for is
burned or cracked resistors. Again, this wouldn't
necessarily indicate a problem with the amp, but
rather that the components are simply worn out.
Check
the electrolytic capacitors for "bubbles"
or residue on the ends of the cans--they'll need to
be replaced, if so. It's an accepted fact that
electrolytics "die" after years of use and
must be replaced. Ask if the amp's been played
regularly, or stored away--ironically, amps that are
played regularly often sound better than those that
have been mothballed, because electrolytic caps need
regular "exercise" to keep from drying out.
Of course, the big test is in the sound! When you
plug in and turn on, be sure to give enough time for
the amp to warm up (I'd try to play it for at
least a half-hour or so). A 60-cycle hum
indicates bad filter capacitors, which will need to
be replaced. Listen carefully for crackles and
drop-outs which might indicate bad internal
components--often these don't become apparent until
the amp is really warmed up.
Once
you've parted with cash in a private sale, you've
bought it 'as seen' with no comeback, whereas a shop
will normally provide a reduced warranty.
Remember,
most of your sound is defined by the amp you use, so
it's worth taking time to make the best choice. Don't
feel you have to settle for second best with a first
amp, find something that inspires you and makes you
want to play. With so much choice out there today,
there's an amp that's just right for you, whatever
your budget.
See
also: Amp Myths
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